Best trad climbing harness reddit When i buy another harness i'm going to look at the petzl's again. 5 and 5. 6/5. A. I notice after a weekend of sport climbing i start to get bruises where the straps go. Our team has 10 years of experience in testing helmets. Or concerned about weight because you're climbing 5. Maybe a 60-something lady in Old Navy's best and a bob haircut doesn't look like their demographic, but no one there gave her the time of day. Turns out my new climbing friends also love to sport climb (I live for sport climbing) and have done some trad climbing. Unfortunately, he felt the screaming barfies coming, too, as it was so cold. 4-4 and a single rack of friends . If you have a climbing partner that already knows how to lead trad and you trust him/her, having that person check your gear placements and give you feedback will be very useful. Go on a trad climbing trip with experienced leaders (get on very easy trad, 3-4 grades under your sport level) Start buying gear and repeat step 3. I've been climbing top rope for a few years now and I've burnt out all my local spots so I decided it's time to start sport and trad climbing. Or single and multi pitch. My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. Most things from Simond are fine. I've found overall kataki's to be the best all around shoes ice used for crack, having an exceptionally low profile toe, while at the same time being very comfortable (the have a similar neoprene sock construction to tenayas), and also moderately aggressive even when sized to jam comfortably for face climbing. The key difference is that alpine harnesses typically include features geared toward glacier travel and ice In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. 10 trad climbing. 6) schoolroom will probably feel pretty hard, compared to say a typical 5. There were no climbing gyms and sport climbing wasn't invented yet. Seems to cover nearly all bases. However since you’re in Canada, you may be able to find an Arc’teryx AR-395. Trying to master my gear placement… Learnt to climb in the UK, but am Canadian, and have spent more time climbing there. Nov 3, 2022 · The Black Diamond Solution Guide is our favorite harness specifically for trad and multi-pitch climbing because it combines the incredible comfort of the BD Solution with a design and feature set optimized for all-day comfort and carrying a large rack. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. In this article, we'll discuss some best practices for assembling your "rack" — all your nuts, cams, carabiners, 'draws, etc. If you have a trad climbing partner, you should ask him. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. Second story is not mine, and is an ice climbing story rather than just a trad climbing story-- It was a bitterly cold day, and he hadn't managed to poop before heading out that morning. 75-2, sport draws, alpine draws, locking biners I haven't been able to trad climb in a couple of weeks due to the weather(I live in Norway and it is the end of the season), and since I am constantly thinking about trad climbing. Stuff that you can leave behind on a bail anchor without counting the cost. Gear loops probably aren't going to be a concern, but even in sport climbing, making sure your harness racks well can be a plus. I’ve been trad climbing for 3 years now and am starting to break into 5. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Or wearing it over lots of layers while ice climbing. Understand that trad climbing is a continuous learning process. nuts, extended quickdraw My thought was to start climbing trad slowly this year, but with covid and everything it been slow. If it's on the market, we've most surely gotten our mitts on it. They are the most comfortable shoe I've worn and perfect for sub 5. I have the Edelrid Prisma Guide. Trad climbing was not some big goal that you had to work up to by a progression of gym > sport > trad. A red point trad project doesnt make sense to optimize for in this fashion as you'll be memorizing the gear anyway and dumping tons of extra pieces. The C4, Drago Don't buy hexes. The dual axle design is largely obsolete, but it's still a proven concept that does the job. Maybe good for harder stuff too but I'm a wimp when it comes to climbing on gear. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. Today I tried to climbing a 5. If you are carrying a lot of gear, move to a bigger trad-style harness since you aren't pinching ounces anymore. Sell now and recoup your money. But it does fall short on the extreme end of things, e. I wouldn't recommend it for trad climbing, since it won't be really comfortable if you have multiple falls. Harness #2 is when most people start thinking about features. But they are all free climbing. If you don't care about cost, the Arcteryx harness are super thin and comfy. then this grade (5. We came into it with a strong sport climbing background, understanding of pro, and general dos/don'ts. Just as trad is free climbing without fixed gear. We list top choice first followed sometimes by the Best Buy (BB) choice> For example, the La Sportiva TC Pro is our top Yosemite shoe choice but costs $170. Dec 10, 2024 · An alpine climbing harness offers most of the same features as a trad climbing harness. They’re super light, super flexible and they seem to fit everywhere. harness, rope, carabiners, atc, and a couple slings I'm just trying to figure out what gear is an absolute must have. Mar 21, 2021 · Best Trad Climbing Quickdraw: Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw. C4s are great for pure trad: when I’m pumped while placing gear I really enjoy a thumb loop. The Best Men’s Climbing Pants of 2025 Sponsored by REI Co-op, Deals. Hi y’all, I’m looking for a women’s-specific harness to replace my BD Big Gun. 12 or harder on gear, there is no reason to spend $200 on climbing shoes with the exception of TC pros which are worth it if you climb enough to resole em once per year. Any recommendations for a trad harnesses welcome, specifically any women's harnesses as I am pretty tiny and the smallest size “unisex” harnesses I’ve tried are too big. Really this is more of a best multipitch subalpine rack question. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. If you plan to climb anything higher than 30 meters (half a rope lenght), the self-rescue book is also mandatory, for your partner and your safety. After hauling all their gear (trad gear is really heavy especially those big tricams, and you need a couple of those for most routes). The class did some practice mock leads in the class, but the students mostly Oct 28, 2016 · To learn more trad climbing skills, see the rest of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. I like the padding and the sturdy gear loops & haul loop, don’t love or need the double belay loops, and I find the back gear loop hard to reach. Oliver Gatton:. Its padded waistbelt and leg loops feature ENDOFRAME Technology to evenly distribute pressure for all-day comfort, whether you’re tackling single-pitch climbs or extended multi-pitch routes. Unless you are climbing 5. Hey man, Bouldering is climbing without a rope and you do not climb nearly as high. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I wanna buy one harness if that's possible. So, back in 2016 I was taught for a summer some trad climbing mostly in Index, WA, but also a bit in Leavenworth and often climbing beautiful granite, sometimes a bit wet or muddy, or solid volcanic or sandstone, etc. In my large stuff sack of trad gear I carry lots of gear for "cragging" as I plan to set a few ropes on top rope in addition to leading routes with the gear that is not used for the top ropes. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. Dec 19, 2023 · Climbers who are attempting to climb big walls free or in a day will want to use a multi-pitch trad climbing harness. 1-. From placing/removing gear and As much as I have to admit it, climbing often leaves a trace. May 6, 2025 · Helmets and Harnesses. offsets nuts are really nice to have My trad rack currently contains quite a bit of DMM gear including their torque nuts, offsets, and their stoppers. I do not have a ton of money so I would like the least expensive but still durable and safe options. In a trad-focused quickdraw, lightness and usability are crucial. But I wouldn’t wear it for roped rock climbing. I have done many normal anchors, some anchors to threes, but never before with trad gear. the best trad climbers, they're just the best because sport climbers are usually focused on other stuff. The packs I’ve been eyeing up is are the Mystery Ranch Scree 32 L and Osprey Tempest Pro 28 L. Got a single rack of c4s . 5 & . Trad climbing often involves crack climbing , which is a different style of climbing from face climbing. I want to get into trad climbing so I wanted to purchase items for a climbing rack. Extendable slings are great in this setting. Spend the 5 euro more for a more regular one. 6 multipitch not to far from me and I want to go Yep, been climbing on the Edelrid Jay since I started climbing 5 years ago. Harness isn't bulky but holds a lot of gear and is padded enough to be comfortable on multi pitch. I'm looking to get back into climbing, and I'm realizing now that I need to replace my old BD Aspect harness. During the summer I bought lightweight screw carabiners by DMM, and color coded carabiners for my cams, which truly felt like a revolution for me. Yes. I want a harness with 4 side gear loops and one in the back, anything less is going to be horrible if I need to carry a rack. I find that a lightweight alpine harness with three loops works well for me. Without breaking the bank. Deep in the mountains with a full rack on your harness, you don’t want quickdraws to add unnecessary weight. Petzl is possibly the most consistently reliable company I have ever interacted with. When trad climbing you have to consider the system as a whole and it’s ability to protect you and your belayer from the worst case scenarios. 9+ trad routes after only 2 years of leading trad. In via ferratas you and the harness will come in touch with the rocks alot. I would make a list of what I had as a trad rack, so I would have a starting point in the future. I climb trad so I value the large gear loops and even the small rear loop (on the AR-385a). Cutting edge trad climbing sometimes involves placing marginal gear, usually backed up with better gear below. Your harness should fit over the hip bone and constrict smaller than that to secure you from an inversion(not likely unless leading and you fall with your foot behind the rope but still, anything is possible). I have a rack of totems then BD C4 . 4 to 3). At best you fall right up on placing and maybe only bounce to the ground. the hexes were useless, the nuts were Ok but the shapes weren't as good as modern nuts -- however the Camalot 3. 5 was pure gold, perfect for some crack climbs, and is no longer made. Crypto 10% mountaineering? Get a decent trad harness. It’ll work but other harnesses are much more comfortable. I would have used threes, but didnt have any static rope with me this time. It was a well protected sport route so everything turned out okay. During some quarantine cleaning, I found an old harness that should be disposed of (its 10 years old, and 'well loved'). We've worn these brain buckets in all manners of conditions, from multi-pitch trad to single-pitch sport. On here sits all the extra stuff. . Tons of space for gear whether it's sport or trad climbing, and even has slots to put ice clippers to use for ice climbing. She was unimpressed. Maybe get a small number of cams (the most useful sizes). If money is no option, the Arcteryx R300/R320 will probably be your best choice. Only thing I wish is that it were the ultralights and zeros throughout since fully l Almost as light as alpine harnesses, very comfortable and enough gear loop space for even trad multipitch (and ice ax loops for ice climbing too!) Reply reply CongregationOfVapors My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. The design of the totem is simply better imo. It has plenty of room on its gear loops for long multi-pitch and trad climbs, as well as a comfortable waist and leg loop construction. If i dont like em, i'll start looking at some smaller companies. I plan on climbing mostly gym rope and hopefully some indoor/outdoor sport in the nearish future. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s Easy TR access, easy gear, easy climbing. I have a single rack of BD cams from 0. 14+. Harness Wear and Retirement. As you're starting you might never want to risk a fall for a bit. Namely that routes cannot be bolted on natural rock. Took me about three months of trad climbing to fall on my gear. 4-4, with . The cheapest harness has a weird combined tie-in/belay loop thing. 11's though I've been taking it much easier this year) I needed to reevaluate how I placed gearit really isn't worth placing gear that will pull as it (if placed above you) will just make you fall farther. I have bought SO MANY harnesses in pursuit of this exact issue and also correct fit. Whether you’re a new climber stepping into the gym for the first time or a longtime crusher May 1, 2013 · I'm looking for a top of the line trad harness with preferably 6-7 gear loops (not necessarily a big wall harness). 4 ice clipper slots, 2 large molded front gear loops, 2 flexible rear gear loops (would work well when wearing a pack) haul loop, fixed legs, and a very popping orange color that will look nice in photos against blue ice lol. I never climbed at Honnold's level, and I suspect what he might mean is that there is a boldness to British climbing that comes from the fact there are strict rules around bolting. Trad and sport harnesses can be different with the padding and gear loop layouts. My usual standard rack for a single, decent length pitch I know little about includes 4-8 quickdraws in addition to maybe 4 alpine draws. You should absolutely have ice clippers as an option. Jul 5, 2023 · For example, in comparison to sport climbing harnesses, trad or multi-pitch climbing harnesses usually feature extra padding and ventilation, as well as additional gear loops and a haul loop. I got the arcteryx harness, and liked it better at the time. I am now projecting 5. Harnesses designed for alpine climbing and mountaineering are often made so that the leg loops can be put on without removing boots or crampons. Also been collecting a trad rack for a while and I’m about to purchase the final pieces. Start now. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. Nov 6, 2024 · Whether you climb sport, trad, or alpine peaks, or love clipping draws in the gym, we've got you covered. That is when you start to get into some bigger numbers, but if cared for properly, Trad gear should last you many seasons. 11 on gear. The best advice I have for you is to boulder a ton so that you start to develop proper technique so that you don't get elvis leg (as much) while placing gear. My hands down favorite has been the DMM Puma - I love love love harnesses with a floating waist belt so you can center it no matter what layers you are wearing; it has substantial gear loops oriented toward the front, a full size fifth loop even in XS; ice clipper slots, and strikes a comfortable padding Feels like it’s not there when you’re climbing. — on a gear sling or harness gear loops (or a combo) so you'll be able to quickly reach what you need during your climb. They're popular in ice climbing to give marginal ice screws an extra chance of surviving a load. trad mixed climbing I will agree with the small/far back gear loops. My local trad climbing area is eldo, so I place these things a lot, and I’ve fallen on them plenty. 4 vs #4) Master point equalization with respect to previous three points Likelihood of follower fall Likelihood of leader fall on the first few moves of the next pitch Gear I expect to place on the next pitch Jun 5, 2017 · Best High Sierra Climbing Rack Best Yosemite Climbing Rack. 6 route elsewhere. Maybe the YouTube videos get more views with exciting stuff like gear ripping out. 3- 3, Dmm nuts, as well as their offsets. I'd recommend sport climbing outside for a few seasons before you consider getting into trad climbing, its a whole other conversation in itself. My first harness had adjustable and I never changed them, they mostly just made it bulkier and hard to pack. I was super scared because it was a trad route so I knew I couldn't trust the rock. 7 that is of average length with what I have been told is a standard rack and I got halfway up and realized that I had used all of my large cams and the crack was only getting larger. My recommendation: If they don't have any offset nuts, get some. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. Needs 4 good size gear loops for trad rack. It does the gym, sport, trad, ice, and alpine stuff very well. So, free soloing is free climbing without protection. But, we called it "climbing". I have a set of hexes, long pieces of webbing, BD nuts, DMM offsets, BD cams from 000-4 doubles in 0. In retrospect, the arcteryx isnt that good, def given the price tag. Previous to having this harness, I just squeezed all this stuff behind all the alpines, but it was a pain. We really just used it as a way to jumpstart our trad climbing careers because we didn't know too many other climbers to go the traditional "mentor-follower" style. Not customizable but a great ice/trad harness as well! Experience: climbing and mountaineering for 3 years, took a trad climbing course 2 years ago. I climb sport and trad but I don’t have trad gear. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. 5 - #5. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. What I carry when ice climbing, cragging, multpitch climbing, trad climbing, etc are all different. Mar 17, 2025 · In reply to. I have a different experience with the post-2018 Adjama: I am right in the sweet spot for the medium size but the gear loops on the left are not symmetrical to the right side and are too far back, the gear loop stitching is loose (lots of reports of people losing their rack of cams on climbs), and hanging comfort is no better or even worse than Petzl's entry-level harness, the Corax. Kids are 9 11 and 12 and are all on the… Directionality of gear placements Type and size of gear placements (nuts vs cams, 0. So my question is, one, is that possible? And two, what harnesses do yall recommend? Thanks for helping me out!! Edit - After a little research, Ive found the C. If you end up buying again in the future you can get the same gear for cheaper or you can buy newer gear with better technology. It’s really lightweight and feels that way but it’s super durable. Sport or Lead climbing is when you attach your rope, using quick draws, to fixed anchors in the wall as you go up. What advice do people have and what items would you recommend as most important. Don't compromise the 90% to save a small amount of weight and pack space during the 10%. I end up attaching the carabiner to the gear loop at the back, I have yet to find a better solution, I do not like the chalk bag going 90 degrees because of this. My first day climbing in it was in a chimney crawl climb haha 45L Tendon Gear Bag is the best crag pack ive had. I have done top rope, lead and trad climbing courses. There is also trad climbing where you do not use anchors, but put your own gear into the wall. My gear includes: rappelling equipment (ATC, double length sling, prusik), a set of quick draws, chalk bag, 2 pairs of shoes, harness, and a rope that I plan on strapping over the top of the pack. Hopefully most people try to minimize their impact when out climbing or developing areas. Before buying one, make sure to read all the manufacturer’s specs and check the sizes of I am a newbie trad climber who can still count the amount trad routes I have done on my fingers. The La Sportiva Tarantula is our Best Buy winner at only $90 and will get the job done. I don't do any aid climbing but have recently started getting into a lot of multi pitch climbs so comfort is also a necessity with the hanging belays. (I'm a dude and know nothing about women's shoes) Maybe not the most used, but the easiest to place correctly are BD #2's. Business, Economics, and Finance. 7 come realistically into the "I almost certainly can avoid falling" range. Thanks! Specific skills include: gear/protection placements, building anchors by placing gear and equalising them, Prusik skills, and learning trad climbing calls (shouts/instructions). Apr 19, 2022 · - fixed leg loops: I generally find that with a well fitting harness a fixed leg loop still accommodates a range of pants from shorts to alpine layers - large gear loops (and rear haul loop/gear loop) and ice clipper slots (ideally 4) - comfort and fit: (subjective) Top of the list for me: Arc’teryx harnesses: the FL365 was perfect for me. Feb 2, 2024 · Through first-hand experience and vast research of Reddit, Mountainproject, and various other climbing forums, we have chosen these harnesses as the gold standard for best climbing harnesses. It's more useful to buy one or two cams than a fu Unless you're going mountaineering, or ice climbing, I would forget any harness with adjustable leg loops. • Bail anchor gear - length of cheap nylon tube webbing & a couple of steel quick links / maillons rapide. That said, if you really want a stiff pair of shoes for long multipitches, boreal makes some good quality stiff shoes at a competitive pricepoint. Haul loop: Shoes. I think the best advice I ever heard is focus 100 percent on the placements when your placing, then 100 percent on the climbing. Fixed leg loops are much easier to deal with on a daily basis, and since you only need to remember tighten the waist loop, it's two less things for you to forget. The load pulls directly on the lobes rather than the stem, this has many advantages. BD Chaos is a great harness for trad, comfortable and I like the gear loops. I'd rather not throw half a… It’s a harness for alpine climbing. May 1, 2025 · The Arc’teryx AR-385a (women’s) and AR-395a (men’s) is a do-it-all harness that can handle sport climbs as well as gear-intensive trad and ice projects thanks to four large, oblong gear loops and four ice clipper slots. 10+ on gear. For more specific to rock climbing and trad, I would recommend Craig Leubben's book, "rock climbing: masterising basics". I primarily engage in sport climbing, and don't have any particular aspirations for doing a great deal of trad or multi-pitch climbing, outside following the occasional romp. Same is true for older style single axle cams. Making your first piece on a pitch multi-directional is often a good idea and will keep you from zippering your pro. Not only are they great for holding ice screws, they are great for holding a second tool when you UK trad climber here - hardly ever see bolted belays here so all natural. This is completely true and always has been. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. I took a trad class this summer, so I could learn basic skills around self-rescue, setting up protection/anchor, multipitch, and alpine climbing. g. Little cottonwood granite routes are sandbaged, and will feel much harder than the grade if you are not well versed in granite/slab-friction/crack climbing. 2a- To organize my gear on trad routes multi pitches: back loop is for SHTF stuff, knife, cordelette, second prussik, pulley if needed. set of nuts. I also want to get back into traditional climbing later this summer. Do they all have nuances? Different movement? Different gear? Of course. If you are ever in doubt as to whether it may be time to retire your harness, the answer should automatically be: yes. What gear to carry, where to carry it and how to rack it are key considerations as you progress in your skills as a lead trad climber. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. I'm considering buying a new harness and my question is there generally a noticeable difference in Sport-vs-Trad-vs-Alpine harnesses? My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. Basic rescue is very useful and you won’t need it until you REALLY need it so best to have those tools on your toolbelt already. He was on a scary lead and felt the pressure building. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. They’re super light, good gear loops, 4 clipper loops, and adjustable leg loops. Comes with a rope tarp and has two loops inside to clip trad gear so it stays in one spot just hanging and can pack around them as well as straps for a rope on the outisde. Although, having them far back is nice for keeping stuff out of the way of my legs. Thanks! Everyone will have a different answer, but for me technical mountaineering usually means trad climbing while wearing ski pants and a backpack. Most of these harnesses will also tack on adjustable leg loops and ice clipper slots, which provide versatility for ice and mixed routes but are not Yeah I had a person take me up a trad route that was way too hard for me. 7). Only recently has 5. Energy CR3 Harness. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. Cheers Bodyweight Fitness is for redditors who like to use their own body to train, from the simple pullups, pushups, and squats to the advanced bodyweight fitness movements like the planche, one arm chin-ups, or single leg squats. I started with trad in 1972. 5-3 C4 cam size. Not sure what you're looking to spend but it's on sale for $93 right now, which is probably the cheapest you're gonna get it at. If you climb mainly indoors, or only in warm climates, try to avoid supper padded harnesses-- these feel good when you first hang in them, but are going to make you hot and sweaty. Three bits of gear (ideally threads/slings or nuts in separate cracks) with screwgates attached. I already have some sport climbing items such as quick draws, rope, harness, and Jan 15, 2021 · Here are the best trad climbing harnesses available on the market in 2021. 5 racks looking to make it a true double. Until then, BD Momentum is a good default starting point. I use a Petzl sitta for alpine and a padded thing for indoors. My goal with trad ain't to climb 5. If you are not used to granite/slab climbing/crack climbing…. Nov 9, 2022 · Tim N wrote: A couple more ice harness thoughts: - The Mammut Sender also looks like a very nice harness, especially for ice climbing. Looking for recommendations for a children's harness. I have heard that I would love the Up Mocc's and then also that the TC Pro is the end all be all of trad shoes. At the same time, you don’t want to be left fumbling to clip or clean. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Dan The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. May 11, 2025 · The Petzl Adjama Harness is a versatile climbing companion, built for everything from trad routes to technical mountaineering. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. I've always found their gear innovative and just a cute above the rest. It's made from Dynema, stupid light (161gram) and awesome for glacier travel. It's has two weaknesses: not great for extended hanging and the tie in points wear a bit fast. Easy to pack and super durable. Best Yosemite Big Wall Climbing Rack. It depends on the situation. when you double back the harness strap is there at least 3" left? I say it because the harness you have is only rated up to 39" waists. Whenever you climb a route, try to evaluate how you can improve. It did not crease at all as some of the R300 users have reported. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. So at best, you're hitting the ground immediately upon placing. 12 super hard stuff, but more into 5. Climbing harnesses wear out over time and eventually need to be retired. It sits really nicely on my hips and is easy to adjust. I was in the process of starting my rack back then, set of nuts and my first cam. Unless you're planning on ice climbing or your thighs are an odd size, I would recommend getting fixed leg loops (no buckles). Hi all, title says it all. I bought a DMM Viper last year, as needed an in-date one for instructing. May 8, 2020 · The Black Diamond Solution Guide Harness offers support, comfort, and extreme durability in a trad-specific harness. Whatever gear he likes to place often and is practical for you to buy, it will be nice to have doubles between the two of you. I tend to lead everything for my friends so own 1. Nor does a day at the crag onsighting as you can better weight optimize by sighting the route and dropping extras as necessary. The harness I started climbing with a year ago is a sport harness with two gear loops that is not cutting it for trad climbing. Send your next project with one of the best women's climbing harnesses of 2025. I'm a new trad climber interested in the long alpine style routes that are often 10+ pitches. 10 and lower multipitch. Maybe plan to buy a dedicated Alpine harness down the road. Probably be used for gym climbing and rappelling. For example, if your first piece is a nut set well to catch a downward pull, but is easily yanked out with a upward jerk, then falling on a higher piece can potentially yank your lower pro out of the crack when the rope goes right on your belay. Jul 1, 2024 · An alpine climbing harness will have a lot of the same features as a trad climbing harness, including durable fabrics, large gear loops and a haul loop, and a supportive build for hanging belays. I found a 5. Aug 6, 2024 · The Petzl Sama boasts comfort, good features, and versatility, all for a low price, proving itself to be the best value in a climbing harness. It was what I believe to be the best gearloops (if you decide to take climbing further and do trad) along with awesome comfort. 6 multipitch not to far from me and I want to go 14 votes, 25 comments. Hi anyone have a recommendation for a climbing harness for mountain trad use? Needs to be fairly packable and light for carrying (about 300-350g) but also reasonably comfortable for multi pitch use and hanging stances etc. Looking back on it, when I, and probably most people started, trad climbing I was totally risking a fall, even if I thought I wasn't really. I got started in trad climbing a few years ago when a friend gave me his old rack he hadn't used in 10 years. The harness becomes a lot more important when you're going to be wearing it all day, loading it down with 15lbs of trad gear, and doing hanging belays in it. Even famed trad climbers like the Huber brothers and Tommy had strong sport climbing backgrounds before transitioning to big walls. It's the only harness I own and it's a good "do it all" option IMO. I bought my own gear, but have a tendency to climb with more experienced trad climbers, and they prefer to use their own gear, so mine for the most part just gather dust back at home. I've been climbing in a BD momentum for a little over two years now. Bolts, chalk, webbing, bushwacking, clearing vegetation all leave a trace. Even though most of the climbing I do is mostly crack climbing and therefore I rely heavily on cams, I still carry quickdraws. For a burgeoning trad climber these are a great start. See full list on outdoorgearlab. And you did not have some arbitrary grade you had to be able to climb before even thinking about climbing And most of the features come down to preferences based on what type of climbing you get into. No pure trad pitches outside the course (little beginner-suitable rock for that around here) but maybe a few dozen pitches of mixed trad (runout pitons and bolted/natural features belays mostly) and passages of alpine I protected on gear. I think it was worth it. Your friends also probably have nuts. That said, my ATC, prussik, double length sling and a couple of lockers pretty much never leave my harness. Topping our selection of the best climbing harnesses is the uber versatile, quiver-killer from Arc’teryx. M. As to trad climbers leaving gear, it is very rare unless you are puting up new lines or adventure climbing. 75 for the BD Z4s but don’t have any experience with them. Last year I bought some trad gear (1x cam from 0. Yeah, this is probably the best way. I'm located in the Canadian Rockies and most of our trad climbs are limestone with a few quartizite crags. com Dec 10, 2024 · The Edelrid Moe ($65) is a modern, all-around harness that offers exceptional value for the price. What I'm mostly looking for is a very comfortable harness that I can spend a lot of time hanging comfortably in. Going to multi pitch course this year. The older style of belaying off the harness has the leader clipping a piece of the anchor to protect against a factor 2 fall, which could be near the maximum impact force of the rope (8-9kN), means that the clipped piece of the anchor is acting as a 2:1 pulley and can actually feel more force (1 & 2/3 maximum impact force due to frictional The wide waist part evens out the load so it's comfortable enough for long multipitch days and hanging belays and won't dig into you like thinner harnesses will. It looks more like a belt for glaciers/mountaineering then for climbing. Anyway I fell off at a lot of different spots so the Have fun and be safe my dude. Great harness that I used primarily for outdoor trad and some sport. At worst you start climbing and don't place another piece because you think you're safe and get to 10ft thinking your gear is at 7 feet, and you crater. It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. Rope goes through each bit of gear and is clove-hitched back to an HMS on the figure of eight rope loop at the harness (not belay loop). Mar 20, 2024 · Climbing shoes may get all the air time, but unless you’re in the ranks of soloists like Peter Croft, Alex Honnold and Marc-André Leclerc, you’re going to need one of the best climbing Aug 16, 2020 · We tested rock climbing harnesses from Singing Rock, Petzl, and more, to find the best climbing harness for beginners, including women’s, sport and trad picks. I've dragged that original harness up and through everything you can imagine and I've just gotten around to replacing itwith another Edelrid Jay. Depending on the level off difficulty you want to start I would probably recommend a harness which is more durable then the super light weight material. P. Do some research, read up about gear and see what other people say about it. - If you're going to start climbing with another person without much experience, buy half a set each to start off with. Getting more and more into trad, and I've been doing so with a pair of La Sportiva Solutions, which admittedly, I adore climbing in, but hate having on for multiple pitches or entire days. I found that once I started falling a lot on trad gear (ie trying 5. I’m taking something similar on my next mountaineering trip. Let him try them on and purchase the he likes the most. Hey everyone! I’ve been trad climbing for 3 years now and I am interested in switching my gear around. I like the gear loops and floating waist belt (centralise the padding and belay loop - I'll also accept dual-buckles), but feels a bit "basic" in design, compared to the old WC Synchro it replaced. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. 3 z4s. 2 equivalent (black) and use metolius ultralight master cams for the smaller sizes 0 and 00. Want more in-depth training? Internationally certified mountain guides Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin will teach you the fundamentals of trad climbing in our Intro to Trad 8-week online course. I have totems down to . Is free soloing 1000 ft up different than free climbing 1000 ft up? Of course. But for the gym, there’s no features that are really going to matter, and weight only becomes a concern for things like alpine trips or high end sport climbing. Thank you all for feed back! Cant believe how much there is to improve. I love TC pros but have always had them sized for comfort and can wear my current size all day on long multipitches and alpine routes. It was a gift 3+ years ago and has gotten lots of use, but has never quite fit right for my curves. I have the bare bones climbing gear. And I'm climbing 5. Your gear is stronger than most rock you put it in. All brands fit differently as well so maybe offering to purchase one in your budget is a good idea. My take is that the dragons are really great for alpine climbing. Its my only harness so I use it for everything, gym TR, Sport, and Trad. 😂 I like that I can rent ice-climbing gear, even if the fit is a bit bad if you have smaller feet, it's nice that they offer rentals! Hard to say. To become proficient at climbing trad you first need to be proficient at climbing. Im going to get rid of the . dsfyz ezyfyxx ckfm sdnlvts lidsl mnqfht xnm ozb dcsgd orion