Bambu ams reddit printing review Any of the Bambu printers and the 3d printing knowledge it sounds like you already have are going to get you to "prints without tinkering, most of the time", until you get into multimaterial printing. Also thanks to PLA+ / PLA tough / PLA meta / etc - the need for "stronger materials" is a lot lower then it was couple years ago. It works exactly as you would expect a printer to work without having to mess with it. Today I finally got some of the orange desiccant beads, put the pods in and within an hour it dropped to 10%! 20 hours ago · More expensive home 3D printers, including higher-end Bambu models in the P- and X-series, are "CoreXY" printers, which include a third rail or set of rails (and more Z-axis rails) that allow the My AMS Lite, on the other hand has had zero issues and has never caused a print to pause/stop. Given my intent to primarily use non-Bambu TPU for printing drone mounts with the P1S printer, then the AMS might not be necessary in my case. Along with my Bambu's I have 2 ender 3's, a ender 5 plus, an ender 2 pro, and 2 AnyCubic resin printers. Just because Reddit says one solution works, doesn’t mean it does and is supported. 9 line. 4 nozzle which is what the printer comes with however if you want to print in hig The Bambu PLA Basic profiles print damn near perfect out of the box. Apart from warping the elasticity of the PP makes the turbulence inside the nozzle crazy strong, you really want to print VERY SLOW, with as biggest nozzle you can. The AMS works well, and is definitely nice to have even for single material prints, but getting good results for multimaterial prints still Hello u/RMazer1!Be sure to check the following. Any advice for best way to print it? Thanks Bambu X1C + AMS. An nozzle or extruder clog on the X1C is just pain since I must remove the ams to get access on the top Panel. The first attempt, it got a clog and shredded my filament in the extruder. I've never needed to print multi materials/colors and don't see that changing any time soon. Software and hardware. That being said, using Windex instead has been so much easier. For home printing ASA/ABS rarely make any sense anymore. I am not an owner of any of the Bambu machines, but I have been considering the P1S as well. PLA, ABS, PC, ASA, Nylons, etc. Any ideas? Any of the Bambu printers and the 3d printing knowledge it sounds like you already have are going to get you to "prints without tinkering, most of the time", until you get into multimaterial printing. Cleaned out the nozzle and printed a calibration cube with turned out as normal. Edit: (Although from the wiki link Darwinian999 posted below, Bambu seems to suggest you don't need to dry if the vacuum seal was intact: "Check if the package of the filament is intact. ; in my mind the P1S wins due to the ability to expand and do more down the line. However, when printing with the . 2 nozzle doing multicolor the filament frequently has difficulty ejecting the purge poops properly. My comment about the AMS and the waste had less to do with the amount or cost of the materials being used, but it had more to do with the sheer volume of the waste produced in using it. The PVA I used was straight out of the wrapper (idk if that means it's dry from factory or the opposite) and indeed I have had two instances of it getting stuck. 1 retract, and 20% part fan). I have my AMS lite mounted on top so I had no such experience. The hub has no motor in it to push or pull filament. Follow our rules and you can get tremendous support and suggestions from our community. Filament manufacturers often switch their spools without warning. That said, the absolute fatal flaw, or perhaps design hurdle, is tip forming. this is what I printed to hold the beads. This is a Fakespot Reviews Analysis bot. Just got my P1P Weds and after printing a bunch of stuff (perfectly) with the included Bambu PLA, today I tried to switch to one of the Overture Matte PLAs I had been using on my Ender. P1S can print ABS, ASA and PA while the A1 can't. yea thats legit, i don't know why the first time i fed the hs in it worked perfectly and started printing and completed the single material print. When you look at all the available options for decent printers and then see a Bambu with AMS for the same or lower price it's clear why they've been able to suck up so much of the hobbyist (non-tinker) and prosumer market. 7 P1S can print up to 16 colors (yes you have to have 4 AMS units to do this but it's possible) meanwhile the A1 can only do 4 and I believe it's been confirmed Bambu will not be upgrading the A1 to ever do more than 4. It's a huge upgrade over an Ender. I've been extremely happy with eSun PLA+. I just bought the P1P as my 9th printer. P1S can print PETG, TPU and ABS out of the box, while an A1 can’t. They also printed from the printer's sample files, so they didn't reslice for TPU specifically. So a 0. I will use this printer basically the same- 10-20% PLA, 80-90% TPU. I’ve learned and confirmed from Bambu Support, that it doesn’t care which tube you use for what. If not, please dry it before printing. Yeah, I don’t see DIY RFID tags becoming a thing. Running the TPU directly from AMS lite and hoping for the best? The official line is no. Welcome to the official community of Creality, the world-leading 3D printer brand. Yes it is faster then my Ender 3, but it is far slower than the X1C. The AMS is amazing for using support materials so that you can get a better final print when using supports. bambu treats these gear stages as consumables since they literally consume themselves hi, i tried Draxes settings for flashforge flex pla and allthough it seemed that everything worked out fine. The other added benefit of Bambu filament is that they work perfectly in my AMS and are auto detected as the correct color. then tried a petg/tpu combo print and it got about halfway then jammed at the rear ams feeder. ABS/ASA release poisonous fumes and should not be printed inside anyways. The only pro for buying from Bambu is that each roll has an RFID tag and the AMS Lite can read it so it's one more thing you won't have to worry about. I had a print with ~400g petg. To figure that out when I got home from work I went into bambu slicer and changed different settings to see why it was taking so long. I also slowed down the first layer speed and also the wall speeds. The print head is dragging on the infill of the print as it moves across the part being printed. ) In all seriousness though, it’s also a nice 4 spool drybox which I hadn’t known before installing mine. It's capable of drying 4 filament spools simultaneously, which would seem to be aimed specifically at the Bambu AMS but I can't understand how it could work since the AMS would not be able to physically rewind the spools. For some enclosed Bambu printers in some environments, but not all enclosed Bambu printers in all environments you may need to open either the top or front door to manage print issues when using PLA, but by no means is this required. My big issue right now is it's so humid where I live that keeping PA-CF dry, even in the AMS with desiccant, is a challenge. Bambu PLA oozes less too. Depending on what Bambu support says about covering this repair or not, I may be forced to do this mod which I think would fix my AMS problem. 2 and 0. I am planning to print some parts in WOOD PLA on my P1S / AMS but since Bambulab doesn’t offer that type of filament/ settings , I wanted to know… I've been extremely happy with eSun PLA+. Then I've read reviews about people having issues with printing TPU material. It also keeps filaments I use frequently dry. Amolen makes some GREAT color changing filament and prints like a dream. I realize the X1C is 3 to 4 times the price, but we are talking 5+ hours longer on a smallish print. My x1c needs ~10h while the a1 needed ~14h with similar settings according to Bambu Studio. However, one of its most Noteworthy aspects lies We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I think this may meet the Reddit standard for constructive technical discussion. According to leaked information from reddit, Bambu H2D will feature dual-nozzle capabilities, multi-color printing, and laser engraving, making it a highly anticipated addition to the market. Even at to interface the color swaps kill the print time. Setup: Bambu P1S, 0. A spitter makes great sense, in that you can push whatever filament you want, for single colors. So taking a break from the A1 Mini teasers and announcements, another product announcement caught my eye: the SUNLU Filadryer S4. Mar 21, 2025 · The Bambu Lab H2D, expected to be a flagship 3D printer, is set for official release on March 25, 2025. 54 votes, 33 comments. Bambu Studio makes printing easy too. I then tried to print the v8 again, but it clogged again in the exact same layer. Thanks! But you can get better results if you take advantage of Orca's calibration models and make your own custom filament presets (and never again use the X1C's flow calibration). Regular glow in the dark filament is also abrasive, but bbu claims they got very fine micro powder to her makes it work with regular nozzle and also ams. It feels like the A1 mini at $299 is like a “door buster” to get you to start looking but by the time you finish researching and upgrading you’re not really satisfied until you’re up to a P1S combo lol. I haven't had any print failures in Sport mode, but I did have a failure in Ludicrous mode. Are there any good things that do the same thing but work with my printer? Samesees. Recently discovered my v1 AMS from Kickstarter has 1 of the roller supports broken at some point which was why I was seeing many filament feeding issues which led me to discover this mod. and with the wrong surface it feels sluggish, it needs some texture for the old led sensor to pick up, ive only realized then how spoiled we got with I've ran overture petg nearly nonstop the last few weeks, at first I was using the ring adapters but I noticed the second spool I used was slipping whenever the ams would try to rewind and it would lead to a jumbled mess of filament in the ams I had to sort out before the next print. The other calibration tests I performed from Orca matched what settings were already set, so I just sent it after. We need more AMS competitors. I don't understand why the MMU doesn't just cut the damn thing! Mar 16, 2024 · However, I’d say the current champ for out of the box user friendlyness in an enclosed printer is the flashforge adventurer m5. Things got out of hand pretty quick, and after some fiddling I was able to narrow it down to the Overture. . 4 nozzle can very easily print 0. Unfortunately Prusa is nowhere near Bambu (in MK4 vs P1P/X1C) when looking at the printing process as a whole (so printer capabilities, quality of firmware, AMS vs MMU, whole software ecosystem). Yes, it'll work on a P1S, you have to have the proper firmware version 1. If you can afford it get the AMS not just for multicolor but it makes loading and unloading spools so much easier. The painting is not amazing but it works and allows you to make tweaks easy enough. This article was published on our Blog (blog. Tried to print this print in place v8 engine. Also if you have a model that would normally need 5 colors and only have 1 AMS, you can use color changing filament to help fill in for that missing color. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. That's an advanced usage, to be sure, but a great way to learn more about how printing works and get better results, especially with non- This new A1 looks like it will be an awesome printer, and the new AMS lite solves the biggest frustration I’m aware of with the AMS as it looks like re-spooling is no longer going to be needed for it. But if you could just save profiles from BambuSlicer on the AMS, it would be so much better. [Edit: The layer adhesion issue I mentioned in the following statement was a result of not purging enough material between filament change. I think it just gets upset with any amount of torque required. They all seem to print well but I'm only printing small parts at the moment, about 20x25x10mm. The print took 10 hours and 23 minutes using the printer’s defaults. 😁 Use the Stock Bambu Studio settings with the stock filament profiles and stock bed type settings. Most of the time I print at the normal 100% print speed and that is good enough, but occasionally I turn it up to "Sport" mode at 124%. You WILL save money in the long term printing parts in house. 7. I’ve spent more time designing and printing than I could ever before. It can be tedious to change filament for each piece, an AMS would also make this easy as it makes loading and unloading convenient. Would repeated drying damage the filament? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Welcome to share your unique models, printing tips & ask for help. disregard that "gear assembly" thing, its even the same extruder. 2mm standard X1C settings in Bambu Studio as a baseline and bumped the temps up. ] Layer adhesion is an issue printing multiple parts at speed using two materials (support). My X1C+AMS is my 8th printer. com). In my opinion bambulab found out that there is a huge market of users who like to print and not to tinker the printer. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Have fun in the 3D printing world with Creality! The carbon filter can also make it a bit health friendlier when printing some materials. You can also tell by the flexibility. The AMS needs another revision. its the same machine. If you own your business, think about taking a machine home with you for a few months before you bring it into your business. My last filament printer was a FlashForge Adventurer 3, which was small and slow, but it just plain worked. Larger print area and enclosure to allow multilateral etc. The only evidence is that these brands are sometimes shipping in Bambu branded boxes, meaning the filaments likely are made in the same building. 5mm) for this filament. The Bambu is more closed and not designed to be upgraded and tinkered with. for web browsing it lacks the navigation buttons ^^ its honestly just like a really cheap optical mouse, its manageable for doing linux stuff or navigate in windows, but for browsing it just lacks the navigation buttons which really bugged me. Anyway, as it turns out I actually love the stuff. I’ve had it “jam” with cardboard and plastic spools. One review said ‘I use this for special prints in my Carbon X1 with AMS. Yeah. Is it the printer or the AMS system? The AMS system looks pretty sweet and something I'd like to get as well. But I see that you use Glow PLA with AMS lite. I've been 3D printing now for 4 years and tinkering with printers since then. Plus they have plastic spools so they work great in the AMS. To be a "high speed" printer, it is not what I was expecting. 2LBS)/Spool Company: ERYONE Amazon Product Rating: 4. It’s enclosed to print PETG better, be able to print ABS/ASA that require an enclosure. It’s a single piece of evidence being overly extrapolated. Hacking/modding 3D printers is as much of a hobby as it is actually printing useful stuff. I don't really use the AMS for multi-color printing, but for support filament support or ease of switching between multiple colors without needing to load/reload my unit. Brand - Type - Fit AMS - comments Overture - Matte, PETG, TPU - Yes (Not TPU) - slow down first layer and increase temp by 10 for PETG (cardboard spool) (MatterHackers and Sunlu PETG are better) As an owner of a Bambu print farm - GOOD. Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews: Name: ERYONE Sparkly Galaxy Glitter Red PLA 3D Printer Filament 1. It is a firm enough PVA to use with the AMS unit and I have had good success with this as a support material on prints with very tight overhangs where it is difficult to remove other support material. 265 Nozzle first layer 260 rest, bed at 90 initial 85 rest. Fakespot detects fake reviews, fake products and unreliable sellers using AI. Actually the new flashforge 5m pro can do anything the bambulabs can do and I'd argue it's even better at printing carbon fiber nylon then the Bambu labs up until last year the Bambu labs was the undisputed king with the creality coming in second but now the new flasforge adventurer 5m pro is neck and neck with the bambulabs and it's levels ahead of the creality and its half the price of the Parts of the review are the same as the company's literature. However, it also seemed to limit 3D printing to fairly adventurous tech-savvy folks. The only downside is the slower speed of the a1. Hopefully they start making it in more colors. The filament info suggests a larger nozzle (>0. It's still printing (for another 10 hours for part 4) there's support in the Windows, where the feet go off the AMS and looks like all around the bottom. When I went to print, Bambu Slicer displayed a warning saying that PVA should be very dry and that it has a tendency to get stuck while using it in the AMS unit. The holes on the AMS hub are not numbered like the spools are. This is a non-issue with the . 6 line widths. From the high-end X1 Carbon to the base A1 Mini Combo, Bambu Lab has Just curious. If you go to filament page on Bambu website you can see Cautions for Use AMS lite Not Recommended 0. Works perfectly with the Bambu PLA Basic preset, the spools fit in the AMS, and so far they haven't caused any hiccups or jams. I currently have a bambu A1 and tldr everything works great when printing single color. His TLDR was that bambu basic pla has a lot of additives, which is not necessarily bad because it prints great at the speeds the bambu printers print. Materials I print using an enclosed $699 Bambu Lab P1P (CF= carbon fiber): It's 3D printing, at some point you'll have to regardless of what printer you get I would like good customer support well, this point goes to prusa the ability to self-repair simple stuff this one as well. Printing from the spool holder means pushing the filament through the hub until the extruder can grab it. Usually you'd need a hardened nozzle too I've run ESun PA-CF and NylonX a fair amount through my prusa, both work fine. Reply reply Use the Stock Bambu Studio settings with the stock filament profiles and stock bed type settings. The print settings in the 3mf file seem to be 2 perimeters, and 15% grid infill. Bambu can’t be expected to educate people on every detail that is involved with 3d printing. g. I do print TPU often and always print it inside a Sunlu dryer. an Elegoo Neptune? Or is the AMS a core part of why it's such a competitive offering In a video 4 months ago it said it still needed to have the ams compatibility upgrade has this happened yet? I am also new to 3d printing but have watched a ton of YouTube videos about anything 3d printing related but because I'm new I don't have more printers to add to the panda touch so the master slave thing is kind of not yet necessary for me. 50% is the recommended amount, but this can be increased massively. Yes it is supposed to be a lot easier for those new to 3d printing but the same people don’t know to apply glue stick on the stock plate or keeping their plates clean (especially on the textured one) to ensure good adhesion. Print slow and make sure it’s nice and warm in there and it prints beautiful. Most of the time I'm switching between white and black, so the AMS completely automates this process. Color 3D printing is one of the few logical reasons that we, Bambu Lab, chose 3D printing as our product. all print good after a quick automatic calibration. Heck, my filament dryer doesn't seem to keep up. I could do with your thoughts about the AMS for my use case. I plan to primarily print engineering components from PA/PLA/PC (maybe some composites occasionally). 04mm height, 290°C nozzle temperature 30% part cooling fan and using Bambu’s PC with a 0. As it's got to be strong, is this enough? I feel like I should print it with 3 (or even 4) perimeters, and probably a 3d infill like gyroid or 3d honeycomb. Fire is a great example. If you want AMS (multi-color) or aren’t particularly interested in tinkering with a printer, it’s Bambu in a walk. I would like to know how is Bambu Lab X1-Carbon with TPU, and how is AMS with TPU? Thank you, The best things about Bambu printers is the high reliability and low maintenance as well as very high printing speed. 01 IIRC, but check Bambu's site to be sure, and you have to create the profile from Bambu Studio under filaments, where you go to check all the filaments that you use, there's a new tab at the top for creating custom filaments that will appear on the AMS filament screen. Same here, but what has been bothering since getting my P1P, I noticed that print times are significantly reduced in Bambu Studio when selecting Bambu PLA Basic for example as opposed to Generic PLA, leading me to feel like I should be using Bambu filament just to save the print time. 6 HF nozzle has been the VFR, infill, and infill percentage. AMS has 4 motors and 10 sensors vs the 3 motors and 1 sensor on the MMU. Invested in a glue stick which solved the issue nicely. Nobody is competing with them right now. Especially it’s super simple hotend swapout. When dealing with tons of filaments, it’s a time saver. The AMS filament runout pause works really well and I am able to run spools down to nothing, swap them out, and continue going with no visible mark on the print so far. 4mm Nozzle, textured PEI plate (No adhesive), printer closed, freshly dried spool of 3DJake PCTG transparent (30€/Kg). Review: Integrated 1080p camera for monitoring and time-lapses As mentioned before, there’s an integrated 1080P camera in the front left of the printer which can be used for print monitoring and also for generating time-lapses. I drop the filament in and print without having to change any The bambu P1/X1 printers are like a voron trident but ready to print factory assembled for less money than a voron trident DIY kit where you have upfront print many parts. For my particular needs, I don't see the need for the AMS. 3 line or a 0. Then I decided I wanted a bigger print volume than either and got the K1 Max, and by this point (two weeks ago) they’ve fixed a lot- the cable chain no longer swings toward the extruder latch, and the extruder is revised in I think AMS is really cool, but don’t have an Bambu Labs printer (I have the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro). I don't really have a reason for using it anymore other than it's in my AMS. I got 2 printers (X1C) with 4 AMS each (I print a lot of stuff with a lot of dual-colors projects). tried the same spool (after drying again) in other slots and in my other ams units and couldn't even get it to load the filament without doing that thing Indeed, based on your feedback, using TPU (especially non-Bambu TPU) in the AMS could be problematic. Afterward are a number of other filaments that users on Reddit have reported to work in the AMS. Literally don’t modify anything and print some stuff! 😁 As to your last point, the P1S is really a “advanced filament” machine. One thing I have a hard time pulling from YouTube reviews is this: Without the AMS, is the value prop still there for Bambu A1 vs other printers e. I saw a guy on YouTube who was the using a 1mm nozzle to print a 7mm line with lol The sensible option that I could see Bambu doing is splitting the difference, you don't need 5 toolheads if you have an IDEX + AMS, you can pre-change filaments onto the toolhead sitting idle ready to swap out when you are finished with the current toolhead. The P1/X1 series can also expend to 16 total colors by combining 4 AMS units while the A1 can only handle 1 AMS. You need to use the single spool. But it's way easier to parrot the same thing than actually provide good info. Probably won't try it til we run through the PA6. 3 Fakespot Reviews Grade: B I've ran overture petg nearly nonstop the last few weeks, at first I was using the ring adapters but I noticed the second spool I used was slipping whenever the ams would try to rewind and it would lead to a jumbled mess of filament in the ams I had to sort out before the next print. Bambu is the most plug-and-play brand on the market. I'd also try using the eng plate vs a textured plate for TPU, since textured plates usually have a lot better adhesion in general (and that can be a negative with TPU). We didn't print anything quite as large or flat, but the quality is amazing. Hello u/Optimal_Patience_111!Be sure to check the following. Pretty basic stuff. 1 mm interface separation--which is where I'd print PLA supports anyway. Harder than the normal 95A TPU, great price and really easy to print. Plus just the simple ease of loading and unloading filament makes the upgrade price worth every single penny. I'd buy a X2C XL in a heartbeat though. This is a very small detail. When going from one print to another, I almost always have common used spools already in my AMS. TLDR: The P1S is fast and good. 5% RH inside my AMS with approx 1kg worth of silica gel beads as desiccant; the general ambient indoor RH ranges from 50-80% in my place -- I live in a fairly humid climate. I’m my ams I have dessicant packets in the back. 75mm 1kg (2. That runs against the independent DIY vibe the seemed to really ground the original 3D printing movement. Search for 'community spool'. There are also a bunch of places where a flexible filament can escape so Bambu warns you about not using flexables. "Avoid using AMS lite to print flexible materials, including TPU, TPE, or absorbent PVA. How does one integrate the AMS Lite and filament dryer? Printing at 70% humidity is no joke. 6 nozzle can easily print a 0. There's an unofficial community generated list on which spools fit the AMS on the Bambu Lab Discord. Thanks for posting your results -- this is late to the party, but the lowest I get is around 14. I was hoping the it would at least fit on AMS Lite but of course it’s an oddball size so still needs an adapter. I've mostly run the Bambu PA-CF through the Bambu and it is pretty much the same. I print with the chamber completely closed on a high-temperature plate (or wham bam pex), and haven't experienced any clogs, warping, or other issues. 2: Print the pieces separately, like this model shows. I have printed with mostly PLA. just read p1p reviews. Prints perfect now. What’s also oft repeated is that Bambu filaments contain unique attributes to allow for a higher flow rate and speed, so which is it? I'm also curious as there isn't many people saying much, and looks like they have a decent selection of basic colors , I've seen adapters for the ams but nothing really to throw it on the Bambu spool. i guess they mean the AMS gear assembly, which has always been crap. Jul 19, 2024 · With the stock desiccant packs plus individual 20g packs stuffed in the front voids in my AMS it has consistently stayed right around 25% while printing and slightly heated by the printer beneath it. If the print will have a large surface area, it may be worth printing something smaller first in a corner of the plate, to see how hard it is to remove. I doubt we will ever get an official list unless Bambu does some sort of partnership or 'Works With Bambu Lab' programme. Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews: Name: Noico 80 mil 10 sqft car Sound deadening mat, butyl automotive Sound Deadener, audio Noise Insulation and dampening Company: Noico Amazon Product Rating: 4. i did quickly in the studio try to choose Bambu pla vs generic high speed pla and it didnt change the time of the print job, so is it worth it ?? Carbon fiber filament isn't compatible because it's abrasive and will wear out plastic ams parts over time. The AMS for the P1 can be picky with filament spools, I’ll admit that. Dec 31, 2024 · I have a brand new model I am prototyping that uses both TPU and TPU for AMS, the TPU for AMS parts are far faster to print and work really well. I can just print now with most regular and engineering filaments (not true exotics like PEEK). true. The only thing I've changed for my . I'm still fairly new to 3D printing, so mostly using stock settings for PLA, so it is printing at the default Bambu speed. The AMS Lite is a an interesting animal. They have the most robust slicer. 2 mm Nozzle Not Compatible Your problem is abrasive filaments using AMS. Aug 19, 2023 · The AMS is a gateway drug as far as multicolor printing. Want to change a simple bearing on a Bambu = a huge downtime, basically anytime it has a hickup and requires you to contact their CS. If you don’t want to shell out or wait for the Bambu glue you can use Pritt Stick, it’s what everyone used to use for this issue. I can just queue up the next print, select the next color I want and go. 4mm nozzle. 3: Get an AMS and paint in Bambu studio. I'm looking at the AMS mount files provided by Bambu. I haven't done high speed TPU yet but just received a new Overture HS roll that should be able to run 7-10 max vol speed. ") While most of the vase worked out very nice, the lower part with overhangs did not do so well. The AMS is enclosed though, so that's a plus. Oh and dry the filament which you have already done. In the past, I'd be manually switching filament every print. One really nice PA-CF print, and a TPU print. In the early days, we thought, naively and bravely, that we could have a full color printer in 18 months that eclipses any ot You'd really benefit by getting a dedicated dryer that you can print from. A 0. meaning no more stringing and supports came out easily from the print and the heatbed the tennis balls i printed broke immediately in contract to previous settings i had which where default bambu pla settings and still bounce very well without breaking yet. I also printed those same containers for the silica beads and put them in my AMS in front. Sad but true. The Bambu Lab AMS IS Amazing. The A1 can print anything the P1 can if you print in PLA / PETG - like 90? 95?% of us do. So Ranki works great for many things. Not OP, but we got excellent results just using the stock bambu settings for our roll of PA6-CF. Nevertheless, most of the time, it still managed to print complex parts with large overhangs at 0. It allows for automatic material switching when a spool runs out. It was at 10% before I started printing and went to 15% since my husband changed the filament out for me and didn’t close it. Not bad. Bambu cuts theirs and the MMU tries to ram the hot filament into the bottom of the hot end/PTFE liner. Unless you want to print with multi colours, then a Bambu Lab with AMS is the only one to consider. First test went well, i used the generic PETG profile and 0. So managed to get this to print fine with the esun filament and a generous coat of the glue on the print bed. Nozzles can very easily go higher or lower than the size of it. Dry TPU is king. Bambu feels like a whole different ethos, sort of like PC vs Mac. Sooo easy to print and I get a volumetric flow of like 36mm/s 3. That alone makes it super attractive for small print farms as it eliminates so much hassle. For the second print, they were using TPU, which is notoriously stringy. Making 3rd party spools compatible for the AMS/AMS Lite are different like you noted, I find it's easier to add an insert into spools for the AMS Lite than it is to add rims to spools for the AMS. The PA6 is discontinued, but there is a new version that is apparently compatible with the AMS which is super handy. A guy wolf something did a lot of testing and found bambu pla behaves weird at different temps and flow rates compared to pure PLA. The bedslinger design makes it easier to pull some shenanigans with printing TPU on fabric, too. I did see some using the AMS Lite with the Sunlu S4 which is quite an investment and doesn’t fit the aesthetic My idea is to just dry the PLA with the dryer and then put it back on the AMS. Was difficult to get a print without jamming in heatbreak (finally got a print at 250 C, 0. 😁 What Bambu Labs does is buys their filament from selected vendors including Hatchbox and eSun (possibly with their own quality control added so they reject whatever doesn't meet some standard they set?), and they put it on their own reels that have the RFID chip to tell the AMS how much filament remains and what type and color you loaded in. Hi all. (I rarely did multicolor prints before and it’s so easy now I find myself looking for excuses to do so. Trust me on that. Mar 29, 2025 · Bambu Lab burst onto the 3D printing scene just two years ago and has since managed to turn consumer 3D printing on its head. Definitely going to be my new go-to filament. If the AMS Lite doesn't work, I might still get the printer without the AMS just for running TPU. I'm normally printing PP/PE in 70-90C chamber but I managed to print a whole Mendel (back ~15 years ago) in PP without heated bed and without heated chamber using few tricks. It's nice to have the ability to boost the speed. Once it’s warmed up I start the print but immediately make it print in silent mode so it prints slow. Dec 22, 2023 · We got our hands on the Bambu A1 for review and tested the print quality and tolerances. 3. Essentium 74D - from 3D Fuel - Too expensive at $75 for 750g, and only in black. I've gone back to 0. New here and super excited by the X1 (lovely that Bambu link to this subreddit!). Bambu does not recommend the use of abrasive filaments cause there is a lot of plastic in the AMS and it can wear quickly. Lol I should clarify that I've been 3D printing for 3ish years now, mostly resin but some filament. About the only benefit I see is that the color change can make it easy to know where to pry. " I have X1C, I cannot imagine printing without an AMS. bambulab. This machine really impresses. There are a lot of filament companies out there that make cheap and high-quality filament. I woudl like to try some "wood" type filament, no idea the brand yet, maybe ColorFabb. Would love any examples of where color printing value "clicked" for you beyond a very cool gimmick. While using 2 colors only (and because my layers are usually starting with one color and then switch to another one), there is almost 0 waste (and I'm not even using prime towers). wrodm yey dlq liru mcjm dzcc gkwc klxnq ysxhyw ntnvr